I Shouldn't Be Alive
Any story about Ladakh can only begin with the adventure at Khardung-la – the highest motor able mountain pass in the world.
Nubra Valley, to the north of Leh, is a desert amidst snow clad mountains definitely worth visiting, as much for a short walk through sand for the sheer experience of walking through a desert in the middle of the day and feeling cold and for a sighting of the Bactrian double humped camels, nicely spaced by locals to seem in their ‘natural habitat’; as for having to drive through Khardung-la twice.
The first time was nice picture perfect postcard-material memories, while the second one was on the brink of being on an episode of ‘I Shouldn’t Be Alive’.
Headed back from North Pullu, we waited and waited for the trucks in front to traverse through the now slippery roads. Finally the journey began, or should I say odyssey?
Top Of The World
9:38 PM
Halfway up, we found ourselves stuck in a storm of sorts with all traffic at a complete standstill. A journey that began in the afternoon was still in progress and not far removed from where it had started as darkness fell. The cold which was always biting turned freezing.
The windows were shut, only to further rarefy the already diminished oxygen at this altitude of 18,380 ft. (more than 60% the height of Mt. Everest!) It had started snowing a trifle and the temperature was very obviously in the negative. It was all fun for a while, before the fact settled in that we might be on that pass for all of the night.
The next hit in the stomach was when the last biscuit was eaten and a very real chill in the spine, not from the weather – was when the last drop of potable water was drained. Medicines needed to be taken, ablutions were held back too long already and just how many uses of water we took for granted quickly came to the fore.
Many fell asleep, in a sub-conscious hope that it will all be past when they wake up. Some took up the task of stepping out and helping the bus’s cleaner locate the kerosene stove from the back of the bus and get it operational. Once that was achieved, it was time to collect the ice and melt it. It is then that I realized that a lot of ice does not mean a lot of water.
Each trip outside would mean a gust of really cold wind into the bus and an excruciating few seconds for who went to get the ice. Different areas were marked, one to answer all of natures call, and the other to take back some of nature to melt inside the bus.
The Long White Road
9:38 PM
This activity took up a good 4-5 hours. By then, most people were asleep or exhausted and on the brink of falling asleep. Thirst was more acceptable than stepping out for more ice and the numbness had stretched to include the appetite.
Finally, the Gods woke from their dozing and faffing and set the weather right. The army rushed down when they learnt of a group from Bombay (ooh! us weaklings) stuck in the traffic line-up and we were given priority drive-thru rights to cross over towards Leh, where the weather was milder (or so to speak).
Most people slept thru this entire ride to Leh. A few of us, who stopped after the ordeal was over and Khardung-la far behind to take a pee-break, were treated to the best view of the night-sky I have ever seen. It was then, could tell that each star is it’s galaxy’s sun as they shone like thin beams from a distant torch-light trying to squint at the activity on this far planet…