With high profile neighbours like China and Pakistan, accompanied by others like Sri Lanka, Nepal, Myanmar and Bangladesh who each have their own unique attractions and moments of excitement on a global scale, it is only after a pause that most people remember the sleepy little country about the size of Switzerland with who we share a border of 605 kms. Our smallest neighbour and perhaps one we share the best ties with - the Kingdom Of Bhutan.

A possible derivative of the name Bhutan is believed to be from Sanskrit Bhoṭa-anta - a reference to Bhutan’s position at the southernmost extreme of the Tibetan plateau and culture. However, Bhutan is the name which occurs only in English communication. In Bhutanese, which is also known as Dzongkha, the official name of this Buddhist kingdom is Drukyul (country of the Drokpa, the Dragon People, or the Land of the Thunder Dragon), a reference to the country's dominant Buddhist sect.

Sandwiched between India on 3 sides (east, south and west) and Tibet in the North, Bhutan is a land-locked country which holds the distinction of being amongst the very, very few countries which have been independent throughout their history, never conquered, occupied, or governed by an outside power (notwithstanding occasional [nominal] tributary status). Though Bhutan has believed to have been inhabited from as early as 2000 BCE, for much of its history, Bhutan has preserved its isolation from the outside world, staying out of international organisations and maintaining few bilateral relations.

The region of Bhutan was a site of numerous warring factions till the early 16th century when the lama and military leader Shabdrung Namgyal unified the area and created a distinct Bhutanese identity. Bhutan became a protectorate of British India and has since maintained very close relations with India. It was amongst the first to recognise India as an independent country and signed a Treaty of Friendship with India in 1949 which has since been modified in 1972 and 2007.

From actively staying out of contact with the rest of the world, Bhutan from 1952 has aggressively pursued a policy of modernisation. Two major world events are seen as fillips that necessitated this shift in world view. The first was the occupation of Tibet by the Chinese in 1951 which led to Bhutan closing it’s northern frontiers and aligning itself more prominently with it’s southern neighbour. This laid the seeds for Bhutan’s realisation of needing a modernisation program to offset chances of Chinese encroachment. Later in 1975, it’s neighbour Sikkim, which had a monarchy that endured more than 300 years, was ousted by plebiscite causing this long time Indian protectorate to become India’s twenty-second state. An event that undoubtedly created ripples in the Bhutanese monarchy and served as an impetus to speed up reform and modernisation. In 2008, Bhutan made the transition from absolute monarchy to constitutional monarchy.

Given it’s size and location in the Himalayas, it is no surprise that India is Bhutan’s largest trading partner accounting for 98% of its exports and 90% of imports. This special relationship with India allows for easy access to Bhutan for Indian nationals and vice versa, without need for a visa or passport. Entry can be secured with a voter ID, making it the easiest country for Indians to travel to. A facility which surprisingly few Indians seem to avail of.

To be fair to the globe trotting Indians, Bhutan is not exactly encouraging of tourism in general. The country was thrown open to tourists only in the 70s, which is when it also became a member of the United Nations. The entry permit allows for travel only to the capital of Thimphu and the town of  Paro. To go to any area beyond this, tourists must obtain a special area permit from the Immigration Office at Thimphu.

There are three official entry / exit points to Bhutan from India, Phuntsholing, Gelephu and Samdrup Jongkhar in eastern Bhutan. Phuntsholing is about 160 kms from the bustling city of Siliguri in Northern West Bengal. Gelephu is close to Bongaigaon town in Assam and Samdrup Jhonkar is about 150 kms from Guwahati. Of these, Phuntsholing is by far the most easy and popular entry route. Though regulations are favourable, the checking is thorough, methodical and precise. As annoying it is to many people, bribery will not allow faster access or move you up the queue while getting the necessary travel papers.

The only airport is at the town of Paro and Indian citizens can avail of flights at special rates flying out from Kolkata and New Delhi. There are no railways in Bhutan. The first ever railway link connecting India and Bhutan was announced by Prime Minister Manmohan Singh in May 2008 during his visit to Bhutan to commemorate the 50th anniversary of Pandit Jawaharlal Nehru's historic visit to Bhutan in 1958. The project - also called the Nehru Golden Jubliee Railway Link - was proposed as a 18 kilometres link connecting Hashimara in West Bengal to Toribari in Bhutan. Unfortunately, this meagre rail stretch is stuck in the unending miles of Indian Bureaucratic Red Tape.

Once the formalities out of the way, being in Bhutan is like entering a peculiar time warp. All modern amenities are available, the roads though limited, are in pristine condition, English is generally understood and yet, it seems like one has entered a different era. The traditional look, feel, language and customs of the Bhutanese are alive and thriving. The years of isolation and regulation of everything foreign has resulted in a modern country which retains the character of the previous century making the experience like having entered a fairy tale.

Despite the recent surges to integrate with the outside world, the Kingdom of Bhutan is protective of it’s culture and way of life. It was amongst the last countries to introduce television and internet in the country in 1999. In keeping with this, there are some laws which might seem a little queer but go a long way in maintaing the charm of this kingdom in the clouds. By official decree, all buildings must have the traditional Bhutanese architectural look and it is mandatory to wear the traditional Bhutanese dress for all government employees and all citizens entering government buildings. Vajrayana Buddhism is the official state religion and monks of the order are provided significant  government subsidies.

Buddhist monasteries and places of worship along with the forts (dzong) that survive from the medieval ages are the main tourist attractions. The Ta, Rinpung and Drukyel Dzong along with the 7th century  Kyichu Lakhang shrine in Paro are high on the tourist priority list as are the Trashichhoedzong, Changangkha monastic school, various museums and the memorial chortens in the capital Thimphu. The 108 chortens at Dochula pass on the way to Punakha is another popular visit as it also offers a stunning view of the Himalayas. For those with more time on their hands, a stay at Haa Valley which was opend for tourism only in 2002 is an absolute must.

The picture postcard for Bhutan tourism, however, is undoubtedly the Tiger’s Nest monastery. Perched, seemingly precariously, on a sheer rock cliff overlooking the Paro valley at an altitude of over 10000 ft., the Tiger’s Nest monastery is one of those places where history and legend have intermingled so completely that a little bit of each is mixed in the telling of either version. 

The protagonist in the story of Tiger’s Nest is the Indian Guru Padmasambhava, also known as Guru Rinpoche who arrived in Bhutan in the 8th century and established Buddhism in Bhutan and is since seen as the ‘protector saint of Bhutan’. As per the most popular legend, Padmasambhava is said to have arrived here on the back of a flying tigress. He is said to have landed on the cliff, vanquished a local demon, meditated in the cave and anointed it as the place for building a monastery. It is hence that the place came to be known as Taktsang which means ‘Tiger’s Lair’. Many Tibetan saints and eminent figures have known to have meditated at this location.

One story further embellishes the popular legend with the story of Tenzin Rabgye who built the temple here in 1692 and is mentioned by many authors as a reincarnation of Guru Rinpoche. The current structure however is new as the old one was destroyed in a fire in 2005 along with several centuries of records, paintings, artefacts and statues.

The true beauty of the world’s last Buddhist Kingdom is it’s pristine Himalayan landscape and the well preserved bio-diversity. Every mountain is sacred, every grove has a mystery and behind every rock is a story of a miracle. 72% of Bhutan is under forest cover. It;s concern and measures for protecting it’s natural heritage are considered a model to emulate the world over. It is enshrined in the constitution that 60% of the country’s land must be under forest cover, 40% designated as  national parks, reserves and protected areas and a further 9% as biodiversity corridors linking the proected area. This conservation ideal is at the core of every development policy and buttressed by the force of law.

As a Himalayan nation, there is untold potential in mountaineering and related activities. Yet, since 2003, there is a complete ban on any mountaineering in Bhutan. The rationale is a two fold reasoning which combines the respect for the Bhutanese belief of mountain tops being the sacred home of protective spirits and the practical problem of the lack of high-altitude rescue resources.

This combination has made Bhutan home to what is widely claimed to be highest unclimbed mountain in the world in terms of elevation - the Gangkhar Puensum (at 24,836 feet)

Admirable peculiarities abound in Bhutan. They measure not their Gross Domestic Product but their Gross National Happiness. It is the world’s only carbon sink - it absorbs more CO2 than it gives out. As a country, it has outlawed tobacco. It’s primary export is renewable energy in the form of hydroelectricity which it supplies to India.

Expectations from Bhutan are usually low and information about the shy country is not thrown in your face through advertising. The processes for entry to the country can seem confusing and the costs of getting there appear disproportionate as compared to other options of travel in India or the world. Yet, there is a haunting appeal to the place which is not easy to place and on getting here, a strange reluctance to get out of this enchanting kingdom grabs hold. There is a melody to life here. A lilting mesmerising tune which once heard will play itself in your head for a life time. It may not seem much on a map, but that speck on the globe has an entire world hiding within - a shadow realm of sorts I wish there were more of in this world.